Day 2. We made it to Mayville, which sits against the northern shore of Lake Chautauqua. After dinner at a lakeside restaurant, we took a quick dip in the lake and cooled off. It was just getting dark when we made a stop at grocery store. Inside we met Myra who, as it turns out, is no stranger to cycle tourists. Her son is making his way to Santa Barbara, CA right now, after starting out in Portland, ME. She offered us a place to stay for the night, but prefaced the offer with a hesitant tone. She said that her brother, her housemate, probably wouldn’t go for it. According to Myra, home security was high on the list of priorities to her brother Mark. After the idea got an unexpected okay, we followed Myra back to her home. We almost couldn’t believe our eyes, riding up the gravel driveway. Mark and Myra lived in a bonafide log cabin in the woods, right against a lake. Meeting Mark, it was clear he was carefully reading us for the first half hour or so. Somehow, we got his approval, and soon learned he was a pretty incredible person. A true self-made man, when asked about his career, he described himself as RED: retired and extremely dangerous. Taxidermied animals, antique weapons and old western memorabilia covered the deep wood tons of his cabin’s walls. He self-applied the term “mountain man”, and for good reason. Multiple times in his life, Mark lived in a tent in the woods for year-long stretches. As a teenager, he raised a red-tailed hawk. A few times, he made reference to the arsenal of guns locked away in his bedroom, calling them things like “street sweepers” and “alley clearers.” It was pretty clear by his demeanor and style that Mark was a military guy. His row boat even sported some pretty badass nose art and his lighter payed homage to the Seabees, members of the Navy’s construction battalion. Before we left in the morning, he sent us on our way proper, each with a pocket knife for enhanced self protection. Some of his parting words were, “Ya know, I don’t like most people, but I guess I like you two.” Good way to start the day if you ask me.